the return.

as i was scrolling through the online fashion rags today i saw an article about former ysl designer stefano pilati starting a new label, and i felt a rush of excitement that is sort of exclusive to stefano pilati for me. his run of collections for ysl were some of my personal favorites, collections that made such major impressions on me. when pilati left ysl i remember being super bummed, and feeling even more bummed as pilati seemed to focus on menswear and then move to italian label agnona instead of jumping to another giant fashion house. after his departure from agnona in 2016, he seemed to disappear.

the reasons that i love stefano pilati are many. stefano pilati is a master at proportion play, pairing slim capri pants with cocoon coats and bodysuits with blazers. pilati was known for his dark collections, and he did a lot of monochrome black, white & gray, but his use of color always surprised the shit out of me. he would pair colors that are typically considered clashing like canary yellow and gold or orange & black and make them look completely natural, as if they belong together. he had a way of using tones to make colors blend together naturally, an almost lavender would flow into a melon gold and taffy pink with such ease. he also made me feel like something as basic as navy blue can be the most gorgeous color in the world.

i often look back at his collections from his time at ysl and marvel at how those collections (from 7+ years ago), with their voluminous sleeves and intricate ruffles, could be from present day. it’s amazing to think that way back in 2009, the age of marc jacobs maximalism and alexander mcqueen/comme des garcons/margiela futuristic fantasticism, stefano pilati was talking about “a natural and honest chic, an aesthetic paradigm of new minimalism.” pilati has always been an innovator, interested in moving fashion forward. his first collection with agnona in 2013 was presented in a pop up shop where the collection was for sale, years before see-now-buy-now hit the runways. pilati always seemed to struggle with the structure of ysl, such a machine for churning out collections with the loom of its great namesake hanging overhead. with agnona he tried to separate menswear from the couture line, but his last collections saw a blending of menswear and couture, using many of the same fabrics from the menswear collection and calling his last couture collection “a fantasy about identity.”

his newest venture was revealed over instagram stories (17 looks were posted, all of which disappeared after 24 hours), a collection of “genderless and seasonless” pieces, all black, to be released some time in the near future. what the structure of the label will look like isn’t known yet, but pilati said that he is exploring instagram as a platform, and added that “the relationship between price and value will be exceptional.” perhaps this post-vetements world, where the rules are being thrown out, is just the place for stefano pilati to make his voice heard.


re-creating 4 looks from the fall 2017 collections.

re-creating 4 looks from the fall 2017 collections.i’m sure there’s a logical explanation for it, but the past few days have felt incredibly rough. i’ve been experiencing a really strange sort of energy directed at me from what feels like everywhere that can only be described as aggressive. i can’t even say for sure that it’s trump related, but tensions seem to be high right now. i feel like hiding under an actual rock until it passes (it’s going to pass, right?). and so, instead of focusing on all of the hate surrounding me, i thought i’d spend my energy focusing on something that i love: outfits. specifically putting together outfits inspired by what was on the runway for fall.
  1. there were two sky blue monochrome ensembles that really had me, the first was at roksanda: a pretty long dress over trousers with cool matching boots, and the second was at celine: another long shirt dress over trousers. here is a way gorgeous sky blue dress by n-duo (on sale for $269), and matching flowy sky blue n-duo trousers (on sale for $140). my favorite sky blue boots come from vetements ($1007), but if the heel (& the price) is a little steep, here are some cool vayarta flats ($195) . if you’re going the celine route, here is an h&m satin shirt dress ($49) and these vintage dkny trousers look right ($83).
  2. next is the amazing raf simons for calvin klein, who showed a brilliant combination of blazers with detached knit sleeves over them in bright colors paired with knit pencil skirts. here is a similar dark gray check blazer ($65), some bright yellow legwarmers to wear over the sleeves ($2.65), and a red knit pencil skirt ($40). because there is no re-creating the amazing plastic & leather heels that were shown, here are some cool vintage clear plastic shoes ($65).
  3. next is the look from nina ricci that made me swoon with it’s creamy beauty: a white lace bodysuit ($34), paper bag waist pants ($70), a light beige skinny belt worn around the high waist ($5.99), and beautiful cream high heeled boots ($265).
  4. last is the canadian tuxedo shown at more collections than i can count, but notably at calvin klein and dior. here is a cool vintage levi’s jacket ($50) and a vintage pair of rockabilly levis ($50), or some cool emilia wickstead jeans ($570).

the end.

the roundup- fall 2017 edition.

well my darlings, fashion month is done. i started with a certain amount of meh-y-ness. most days the collections and even the street style had me like “meh” peppered in with the occasional “oh shit” moment and then back to meh-ing it out. in the middle of milan, after finding myself whole heartedly wowing at fendi and shrugging indifferently through dolce/prada and some usual fave young designers, i decided to take a deep breath and make “let the collections take you where they will” be my mantra. once it hit paris, i felt a serious shift. shit got real, as they say. this season my favorite collections were by new/young designers (maticevski, vejas, alessandra rich, loewe, j.js lee, natasha zinko, ashley williams), ones that i haven’t typically loved (fendi, christopher kane, & my new favorite nina ricci), and what felt like comebacks from a few old faves (dries van noten, norma kamali, and the amazing raf simons for calvin klein). i was surprised to find myself less than inspired by my usual favorites with balenciaga & celine being the exceptions.

i tend to wind down fashion month by looking back at commonality, and of course there were threads. to begin i must mention that hyper cropped/bolero/shrug jackets popped up in multiple collections, which means that the early oughts have officially come back (actual yikes). fringe is back for fall but in lengthy collars or at hems like crazy hair. mustard yellow/saffron fun fur coats showed up often, in fact fur e’erywhere in trims and bear sleeved jackets. contrast sleeves (including weird detached sweater sleeves) abound. demna gvasalia’s check suiting was in probably 90% of collections for fall. rockabilly denim (another demna inspired item) and canadian tuxedos (ahem) are coming for you. there were also loads of mixed prints (while there’s some demna there too, nobody does it better than print master dries van noten & the amazing jw anderson at loewe), and sheer everything (even more demna!).

at a certain point i had to tell myself to stop calling out rips or references to demna gvasalia and just take it all in, but i realize that you really can’t separate demna gvasalia from fashion month because it’s so glaringly clear how on everyone’s mind demna gvasalia is. there were the obvious references, but when it came time for heavy hitters like gucci, fendi and lemaire i started to notice something different. it wasn’t until celine showed that i realized just how influential demna is. last season there were synchronistic moments between balenciaga and celine, and as i watched celine’s fall collection i felt almost as if phoebe philo was riffing on demna. for fall vetements showed a “survey of social uniforms”  (a re-occurring theme of the label): that of a soldier, a delivery man, a punk, a homeless person (with sleeping bags), a bride, and a couple of women in business skirt sets. to me celine’s collection felt similar, but through the eyes of the celine woman: hardworking women who are navigating incredibly busy lives in bustling cities. celine’s collection felt almost like another piece of the conversation. a nod. from a woman who up until now has stood alone. what feels different this season is that demna’s presence has lost the sort of buzz of a hot new trend. over the last couple of seasons it has felt like the changing of the guard, and it feels now like the shiny newness of vetements is mellowing into what is shaping up to be the new normal: comment on the political climate, whether literal or metaphorical is omnipresent, gender lines are blurring and personal style (styling) reigns supreme.

deconstruction reconstruction!

deconstruction reconstruction!
jeans. jeans are possibly the most basic, constant and crucial element of any wardrobe. jeans are the one thing that never really goes away, decade after decade jeans are there. the cut of jeans is the thing that ebbs and flows, but stays within a general guideline: skinny or loose, high or low waisted. apart from that, the wash is typically the only other variant. over the past few years it’s been interesting to watch how radical a pair of jeans can be, particularly a deconstructed pair, from rachel comey’s legions to 3×1’s fringe jeans to the vetements global takeover. the vetements effect has turned pretty much everything on its head, jeans especially. designers are now re-imagining jeans in wild weird ways, and while patchwork denim is nothing new, layered reconstructed denim feels like the new thing. this has been evidenced by multiple collections over the past few weeks:

so my dears, i thought i’d take a look at three seeds of reconstruction.

  1. first up is the ruffle hem jean, starting with the ruffle master: ellery ($572), on to msgm’s ruffle hem jeans ($285), to marques almeida’s frayed ruffle jeans ($424), to these ruffle jeans from style mafia (on sale for $81).
  2. next is the layered look with frame’s skinny double hem version ($240), and here is a vintage pair of double hem jeans ($44). coming on strong are ksenia schnaider’s layered jeans ($369), replicated here: skirt overlay jeans from storets ($92). last are y project’s high waist layered jeans ($390).
  3. next are a new kind of contrast hem jean, starting with what i consider the jean dujour from the incredible fabulous loewe: gold dipped jeans ($650). here is a pair of vintage jeans with gold silk hems ($67), another vintage pair with gold and beaded seams ($42), off white’s version of contrast cuff jeans ($739), and a pair of black contrast hem jeans from style mafia ($240).

the end.

a week of outfits.

here are seven outfits from this month, most of them worn under a thick wool coat and shoes swapped for rubber rain boots. the end.


the perfect raincoat (an ode to raf simons).

the perfect raincoat (an ode to raf simons).
fashion month is rolling along, friends. new york came and went, with terrible weather and a general sort of lackluster. even the street style was less inspired. it’s tough to dress up in sub zero temperatures and rain sleet & snow, and by the end of the week people seemed tired of facing the elements. this was all sort of a metaphor for the mood of the nation. we’re exhausted. we’re uninspired. we’re beaten. we’re tired of our winter coats. enter raf simons, infusing his first collection with american label calvin klien with his belgian understated grace. there is a smart aesthetic to raf simons that goes beyond minimalism and reads more like elegance (which by definition is: the quality of being graceful and stylish in appearance or manner; style. the quality of being pleasingly ingenious and simple; neatness.) the collection was wonderful, and a standout moment came when he sent coats covered in clear plastic down the runway. it felt like the most simple yet brilliant solution to the winter coat debacle.

there were three coats shown in this manner: 2 long blazer jackets and a gorgeous sunshine yellow faux fur coat. i have combed the nether regions of the interwebs to find a few options to recreate these looks if this never ending rain has you down.

  1. here are a few long blazer coats: a vintage gray one from etsy ($30), a cool gray check topshop blazer with neat sleeves ($35),  a plaid gray vintage one from etsy ($42), a long wool plaid one from h&m ($65).
  2. yellow faux fur coats are tough to come by, but here is one from ebay ($68), and another one here ($70) and one more here ($180).
  3. for the plastic raincoat, here is a perfect vintage clear one with no piping or hood ($35) and another perfect vintage one here ($44).
  4. the belt on the yellow fur coat was a rad thick silver cord belt (which was actually rhinestones). here is a cool silver cord belt ($5), and here is a vintage japanese rope belt ($20).

the end.

from the street: early returns.

from the street: early returns.
it’s that time again: a new fashion season hath begun. over the past couple of years street style has become almost as important as the collections themselves. the fashion elite descend on a city and dictate what trends are to come as much as the designers do. early returns are in on street style, and it’s a little hilarious. while paris couture boasted cold temperatures, day one of new york fashion week occurred in the midst of a blizzard. while it’s tough to look fashionable in frigid temperatures, i am already seeing themes to the street style.


here are some vintage or alternative takes on the soon to be trends above.

  1. statement t-shirts.  it seems dior’s we should all be feminists t-shirts trumped (too soon?) the gucci logo t-shirts that all fashion girls have been wearing this winter, because it’s the dior shirt that is literally everywhere, while the gucci shirts are few. there are plenty of bootlegs out there. this “immigrant” t is at brown’s fashion for $84, while there are tons of we should all be feminists shirts on etsy for a song. you can get the gucci logo t for a cool $420, or buy a bootlegger on ebay for $29.
  2. track pants. everybody still seems to be drinking the demna gvasalia kool-aid, because track pants including the vetements juicy kind are abound. here is a pair of vintage juicy track pants for $19. i personally feel like these vintage embroidered “pain and suffering” ones are the jam. here is a vintage red juicy track suit for $49.
  3. stirrup pants. they’re showing up in all shades, but gilda ambrosio’s purple ones look amazing to my eyes. these vintage purple ones are pretty bang on ($36).
  4. vetements style denim is still around, but the next wave of deconstructed denim is “demi denim” or layered denim. these vintage layered jeans are so rad it hurts.
  5. puffer coats like the red balenciaga, giant marques almeida ones and the new vetements camo ones are showing up everywhere, worn off the shoulder or open like “i don’t care.” i love this vintage 70’s red orange one ($38) and this amazing oversized red one ($85). oh and here is a vintage camo puffer jacket ($87).
  6. shearling. holy crap, shearling is EVERYWHERE. everybody in new york is wearing a shearling coat! blame marques almeida. here is a pretty pink one ($131), a short suede number ($66), and this shaggy denim trim one is my personal fave ($51).
  7. as far as bags go, the jw anderson piece bag is abound, but i’m also seeing some backpacks. i love this vintage black leather backpack with ring clasp ($45), and here is a vintage pierced bag ($32). the balenciaga bazar bag is still everywhere, and i know we’re avoiding fast fashion, but style nanda did this ($46). here is a vintage mini crossbody bag ($13) because that is what everybody is doing apparently.
  8. last is the nearest and dearest to my heart: the dior ribbon kitten heels that everyone is freaking the eff out over. myself included. while they’ve just been shown, somehow they were spotted touching parisian streets. if you, like me, cannot wait for these to hit the population and if you, like me, do not have $813 of shoe money laying around might i suggest a couple of alternatives? firstly are these vintage dior houndstooth mules with dior logo ribbon ($75). second are these cute open toe strappy sandals with dior logo ribbon ($70). lastly might i suggest a little diy: taking a pair of black kitten heels ($40) and some dior logo ribbon ($6.99) and creating your own version.