the afterlife.

well my dears, another fashion month is done. i didn’t know how i would feel about the absence of phoebe, but somehow it made me pay more attention to everyone else. suddenly i had to seek out the gem stones in the sand dune of designers instead of just sitting back and letting phoebe philo deliver them all to me in one collection. to my surprise there were so, so many gems to be found. every morning over coffee i would pour through the previous day’s presentations and feel super stoked by what i found in labels that were unknown to me (Joseph was perhaps my favorite, along with Rochas), along with old favorites (Dries Van Noten, Marni) and some true brilliance from some of my fave up and comers (Rejina Pyo, Attico, A Detacher, A.W.A.K.E., and Alessandra Rich all fuquing nailed it). add a slight crush on vogue’s luke leitch for his sharp witted reporting from the small stages to the mix and this season hath inspired me.

while there were several themes that could translate to trends (sheer tops with exposed boobies are back, once again; along with more check plaids; more polka dots; more puffy sleeves; more turtlenecks; more cowboy boots; tin foil dresses; flashes of royal blue; sweaters worn as scarfs and 80’s mania), my eyes saw a couple of things that really lit my fire. first was the pallet of the season, which feels so in line with my own these days. this range of tans: from a pale khaki which goes into orange and yellow on one end; to a deep tan into chartreuse which goes all the way to a bright (even neon) lime green on the other end. along with this is snakeskin, which was really everywhere. snakeskin boots; snakeskin bags; suits; dresses; skirts; figure skating rompers- you name it. these are a few of my favorite things.

what feels cool is that we seem to have come through this sphere of demna mania and gucci cloning to a new season (at last). there was an uncertainty in the air over the past few seasons, where street style seemed to take over and impact more than the actual collections did and brands like vetements questioned the entire structure of fashion. but over the last couple of seasons street style has seemed to turn into more commodity than community: girls in competition for the most expensive outfit, designer pieces given in exchange for tagged photos and instagram likes. what used to be a thoughtful display of personal style quickly became a wash of breathing advertising campaigns. a sea of girls clickity clacking down the streets in the same pair of balenciaga boots, re/done jeans and slogan t-shirts under “borrowed” statement coats.

part of what felt so depressing about phoebe philo’s departure from the fashion world is that she was such a clear, authentic voice. there were no light shows or tricks- the clothes were elegant and handsome; chic and subtle and they spoke for themselves. what i saw in philo’s absence was her influence; in much of the ease & sophisticated slouch that philo introduced the world to. i saw her in the color palette itself, but within that palette was a big range of clothing. it felt like influence instead of facsimile, and that was refreshing. designers seem to be finding their own voices again, and that is where the magic happens.

 

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october covet.

october covet.
oh october. there is something v romantic about the beginning of october. i mean, how exciting is the idea of fall before fall gets all too real? i must admit i’ve already indulged in more than one pumpkin spice flavored item, and we’ve already cracked our first bottle of red wine, but i’m still stoked on halloween costumes and little brightly painted skulls and twinkly jack-o-lanterns. i’ll be d.i.y.ing the eff out of it this month because i find myself at a particularly scary level of brokeness. it’s all window shopping for me, but if you are in the monies and looking to spend it, here is my list of things i wish i could afford for october.
  1. i feel ready for jeans and turtleneck bodysuits. currently lusting hard over this amazing moss green bodysuit from mara hoffman, which would look perf with these completely radical current/elliott corset jeans. can’t get enough of the paper bag waist.
  2. these little maryam nassir zadeh flats make me so happy.
  3. i had a chance to try these dr. dennis gross skin peels, and they don’t call them the 2 minute skin fix for nothin. they are honestly miraculous.
  4. saw this hecka cute day of the dead wreath at target the other day and wanted it badly.
  5. also ready for big oversized sweater dress weather, and this balenciaga one is so double extra rad, but i’d settle for this topshop one too.
  6. i’ve been on a female author kick lately. september included the new and most highly recommended devotion by patti smith and the heartbreakingly honest & beautiful hunger by roxanne gay. this month i can’t wait to read this new collection of stories called her body and other parties by carmen maria machado.
  7. oh i love this vintage 60’s velvet dress. perfect with boots.
  8. i’ve been really into the return of slouchy boots (while cursing myself for getting rid of all of mine in a closet clean out some years back). my need to own slouchy boots again hit emergency level when i saw this photo of chloe sevigny wearing THE saint laurent black ones. i am currently considering chopping off my hair and selling it on the black market to get the cash to buy these saint laurent esque topshop slouchy boots, but deciding whether i want them in silver, black, white or purple is a real problem.
  9. cooler weather means red wine and this red is way cheap but not vinegary and nast. saw it at trader joe’s this week and said “yes!”
  10. last are new workout clothes, because i have always been incredibly cheap when it comes to workout wear. i have always bought it at walmart, which means it gets manky real quick. recently i decided to invest in a sports bra from j.crew (only because it was on sale and 50% of that sale price) and it was a revelation. i really want this tank top and these leggings.

the end. happy october!

fall dreaming.

fall dreaming.
so, i’m doing my very best to enjoy september this year, and the last few days of summer. i’ve been trying to spend a little time soaking up the sun every day before it disappears into an actual fog. but i can’t deny the little pangs of excitement that i’m feeling about fall. additionally i feel like i need an entirely new wardrobe, to go along with the new season. you understand. here is my dream fall wardrobe. in case you were wondering.
  1. reading an article called “no, hillary clinton should not shut the fuck up and go away” filled me with the desire to wear this sweatshirt every day. solidarity.
  2. my j.crew phase continues, due in large part to this 1984 rugby shirt (which i’m pretty sure i had in 1984), these faux army pants (that remind me of the actual army pants that i wore throughout high school), and this vintage j. crew cardigan that is lined in plaid flannel (like somebody took kurt cobain’s pajamas and lined his sweater with them).
  3. this rachel comey velvet swimsuit/bodysuit is effing gorgeous.
  4. maryam nassir zadeh’s spring 2018 collection blew my mind this week. been seeing so much electric lime green at fashion week and feeling like these mules are where it’s at.
  5. these raey jeans have been all up in my cyber space lately and at first glance i found them ugly for their late 90’s-ness, but after seeing them repeatedly on various fashion girls i feel like i need to have them. that my friends is effective marketing for the modern age.
  6. little house on the prairie micro florals were also abound at fashion week, perhaps most beautifully at brock collection. i’m kind of obsessed with vintage laura ashley dresses right now, like this floral one (another sleeveless option here) and this ultra rare plaid dress which is v v twin peaks.
  7. i want to wear these sky blue glitter socks with red shoes a la dorothy.
  8. it’s a lil’ bit painful how bad i want these attico velvet ankle cuffs. so, so bad.
  9. if you happen to be a size 8 please buy these beautiful green suede isabel marant boots which are 57% off and perfection or these rachel comey ankle boots which are 60% off and also perfection.
  10. really loving cocoa brown lately, especially this creatures of comfort skirt which would be beautiful worn with a bright teal/turquoise top like this awesome vintage bedazzled one.

the end.

re-creating 4 looks from the fall 2017 collections.

re-creating 4 looks from the fall 2017 collections.i’m sure there’s a logical explanation for it, but the past few days have felt incredibly rough. i’ve been experiencing a really strange sort of energy directed at me from what feels like everywhere that can only be described as aggressive. i can’t even say for sure that it’s trump related, but tensions seem to be high right now. i feel like hiding under an actual rock until it passes (it’s going to pass, right?). and so, instead of focusing on all of the hate surrounding me, i thought i’d spend my energy focusing on something that i love: outfits. specifically putting together outfits inspired by what was on the runway for fall.
  1. there were two sky blue monochrome ensembles that really had me, the first was at roksanda: a pretty long dress over trousers with cool matching boots, and the second was at celine: another long shirt dress over trousers. here is a way gorgeous sky blue dress by n-duo (on sale for $269), and matching flowy sky blue n-duo trousers (on sale for $140). my favorite sky blue boots come from vetements ($1007), but if the heel (& the price) is a little steep, here are some cool vayarta flats ($195) . if you’re going the celine route, here is an h&m satin shirt dress ($49) and these vintage dkny trousers look right ($83).
  2. next is the amazing raf simons for calvin klein, who showed a brilliant combination of blazers with detached knit sleeves over them in bright colors paired with knit pencil skirts. here is a similar dark gray check blazer ($65), some bright yellow legwarmers to wear over the sleeves ($2.65), and a red knit pencil skirt ($40). because there is no re-creating the amazing plastic & leather heels that were shown, here are some cool vintage clear plastic shoes ($65).
  3. next is the look from nina ricci that made me swoon with it’s creamy beauty: a white lace bodysuit ($34), paper bag waist pants ($70), a light beige skinny belt worn around the high waist ($5.99), and beautiful cream high heeled boots ($265).
  4. last is the canadian tuxedo shown at more collections than i can count, but notably at calvin klein and dior. here is a cool vintage levi’s jacket ($50) and a vintage pair of rockabilly levis ($50), or some cool emilia wickstead jeans ($570).

the end.

the roundup- fall 2017 edition.

well my darlings, fashion month is done. i started with a certain amount of meh-y-ness. most days the collections and even the street style had me like “meh” peppered in with the occasional “oh shit” moment and then back to meh-ing it out. in the middle of milan, after finding myself whole heartedly wowing at fendi and shrugging indifferently through dolce/prada and some usual fave young designers, i decided to take a deep breath and make “let the collections take you where they will” be my mantra. once it hit paris, i felt a serious shift. shit got real, as they say. this season my favorite collections were by new/young designers (maticevski, vejas, alessandra rich, loewe, j.js lee, natasha zinko, ashley williams), ones that i haven’t typically loved (fendi, christopher kane, & my new favorite nina ricci), and what felt like comebacks from a few old faves (dries van noten, norma kamali, and the amazing raf simons for calvin klein). i was surprised to find myself less than inspired by my usual favorites with balenciaga & celine being the exceptions.

i tend to wind down fashion month by looking back at commonality, and of course there were threads. to begin i must mention that hyper cropped/bolero/shrug jackets popped up in multiple collections, which means that the early oughts have officially come back (actual yikes). fringe is back for fall but in lengthy collars or at hems like crazy hair. mustard yellow/saffron fun fur coats showed up often, in fact fur e’erywhere in trims and bear sleeved jackets. contrast sleeves (including weird detached sweater sleeves) abound. demna gvasalia’s check suiting was in probably 90% of collections for fall. rockabilly denim (another demna inspired item) and canadian tuxedos (ahem) are coming for you. there were also loads of mixed prints (while there’s some demna there too, nobody does it better than print master dries van noten & the amazing jw anderson at loewe), and sheer everything (even more demna!).

at a certain point i had to tell myself to stop calling out rips or references to demna gvasalia and just take it all in, but i realize that you really can’t separate demna gvasalia from fashion month because it’s so glaringly clear how on everyone’s mind demna gvasalia is. there were the obvious references, but when it came time for heavy hitters like gucci, fendi and lemaire i started to notice something different. it wasn’t until celine showed that i realized just how influential demna is. last season there were synchronistic moments between balenciaga and celine, and as i watched celine’s fall collection i felt almost as if phoebe philo was riffing on demna. for fall vetements showed a “survey of social uniforms”  (a re-occurring theme of the label): that of a soldier, a delivery man, a punk, a homeless person (with sleeping bags), a bride, and a couple of women in business skirt sets. to me celine’s collection felt similar, but through the eyes of the celine woman: hardworking women who are navigating incredibly busy lives in bustling cities. celine’s collection felt almost like another piece of the conversation. a nod. from a woman who up until now has stood alone. what feels different this season is that demna’s presence has lost the sort of buzz of a hot new trend. over the last couple of seasons it has felt like the changing of the guard, and it feels now like the shiny newness of vetements is mellowing into what is shaping up to be the new normal: comment on the political climate, whether literal or metaphorical is omnipresent, gender lines are blurring and personal style (styling) reigns supreme.

deconstruction reconstruction!

deconstruction reconstruction!
jeans. jeans are possibly the most basic, constant and crucial element of any wardrobe. jeans are the one thing that never really goes away, decade after decade jeans are there. the cut of jeans is the thing that ebbs and flows, but stays within a general guideline: skinny or loose, high or low waisted. apart from that, the wash is typically the only other variant. over the past few years it’s been interesting to watch how radical a pair of jeans can be, particularly a deconstructed pair, from rachel comey’s legions to 3×1’s fringe jeans to the vetements global takeover. the vetements effect has turned pretty much everything on its head, jeans especially. designers are now re-imagining jeans in wild weird ways, and while patchwork denim is nothing new, layered reconstructed denim feels like the new thing. this has been evidenced by multiple collections over the past few weeks:

so my dears, i thought i’d take a look at three seeds of reconstruction.

  1. first up is the ruffle hem jean, starting with the ruffle master: ellery ($572), on to msgm’s ruffle hem jeans ($285), to marques almeida’s frayed ruffle jeans ($424), to these ruffle jeans from style mafia (on sale for $81).
  2. next is the layered look with frame’s skinny double hem version ($240), and here is a vintage pair of double hem jeans ($44). coming on strong are ksenia schnaider’s layered jeans ($369), replicated here: skirt overlay jeans from storets ($92). last are y project’s high waist layered jeans ($390).
  3. next are a new kind of contrast hem jean, starting with what i consider the jean dujour from the incredible fabulous loewe: gold dipped jeans ($650). here is a pair of vintage jeans with gold silk hems ($67), another vintage pair with gold and beaded seams ($42), off white’s version of contrast cuff jeans ($739), and a pair of black contrast hem jeans from style mafia ($240).

the end.

vintage modern.

vintage modern.

 

fall is a time of year that always has me wanting an entirely new wardrobe. everything that i have feels impractical and outdated and all of the fall collections that have recently hit shops look so beautiful and necessary to my eyes. this will of course happen again in spring when the weather starts to turn and i want to throw out all of my warmer clothes and fill my closet with all of the raddest resort wear. over the last few years of cleaning out my closet, i have found that the fast fashion facsimiles of trendy designer pieces tend to be the ones that get a head scratching/eye rolling and are donated at the end of their season and easily forgotten. but i find that vintage is much harder to part with because even when purchased because of a current designer item, vintage always seems to have a soul and a uniqueness that feels smart and worth hanging on to. i thought i’d do a piece that shows how easy it is to find vintage items that are similar to current designer pieces that maybe aren’t affordable for the average gal about town.

  1. first up is one of my most favorited sweaters of the season: the pompom embellished wool and cashmere sweater from the amazing stella jean ($653). it feels so circa now, with the pom poms and the bright colors and the bib collar. i love this vintage striped sweater that has a similar bib collar and pom poms ($40), and this adorable vintage pom pom cardigan ($42.75).
  2. second is the skirt du jour, worn by seemingly every fashion girl and celebutaunt strutting it out right now: the patent leather mini skirt from isabel marant ($1580). here is a cool vintage one that also zips up the middle ($40), and what could be cooler than a vintage gianni versace patent leather skirt ($284)?
  3. of all of the amazing gucci sweaters out right now, i’m really hearting this men’s wool cardigan ($890). here is a super similar vintage gucci cardigan ($85), and an amazing vintage tennis cardigan with oh so gucci trim ($58) (another version here for $26).
  4. next is the crazy cool balenciaga double breasted checked wool blazer ($2185) that is all over the interwebs. here is a vintage double breasted check blazer ($18) and a vintage mulberry checked blazer with a similar shape ($84).
  5. speaking of balenciaga, their stirrup jeans ($605) are single handedly dispelling the rumor that jeans are dead. here is a pair of vintage high waisted stirrup jeans ($40), and here is a pair of stirrup jeans that are even pink ($54).
  6. next up are winter white heeled ankle boots, seen everywhere but most notably at acne studios ($800). here is a rad vintage pair ($85) and another similar pair ($25).
  7. last is the fall transitional sandal, which is a sandal that you wear with socks. the pvc or plastic wedge was big for summer, most adorably at maryam nassir zadeh ($408). here is a super similar pair of vintage celine wedges ($155),  and here is a way cute pair of vintage plastic wedges for a mere $8.50, or a red pair for a cool $79.

the end.