well my dears, another fashion month is done. i didn’t know how i would feel about the absence of phoebe, but somehow it made me pay more attention to everyone else. suddenly i had to seek out the gem stones in the sand dune of designers instead of just sitting back and letting phoebe philo deliver them all to me in one collection. to my surprise there were so, so many gems to be found. every morning over coffee i would pour through the previous day’s presentations and feel super stoked by what i found in labels that were unknown to me (Joseph was perhaps my favorite, along with Rochas), along with old favorites (Dries Van Noten, Marni) and some true brilliance from some of my fave up and comers (Rejina Pyo, Attico, A Detacher, A.W.A.K.E., and Alessandra Rich all fuquing nailed it). add a slight crush on vogue’s luke leitch for his sharp witted reporting from the small stages to the mix and this season hath inspired me.
while there were several themes that could translate to trends (sheer tops with exposed boobies are back, once again; along with more check plaids; more polka dots; more puffy sleeves; more turtlenecks; more cowboy boots; tin foil dresses; flashes of royal blue; sweaters worn as scarfs and 80’s mania), my eyes saw a couple of things that really lit my fire. first was the pallet of the season, which feels so in line with my own these days. this range of tans: from a pale khaki which goes into orange and yellow on one end; to a deep tan into chartreuse which goes all the way to a bright (even neon) lime green on the other end. along with this is snakeskin, which was really everywhere. snakeskin boots; snakeskin bags; suits; dresses; skirts; figure skating rompers- you name it. these are a few of my favorite things.
what feels cool is that we seem to have come through this sphere of demna mania and gucci cloning to a new season (at last). there was an uncertainty in the air over the past few seasons, where street style seemed to take over and impact more than the actual collections did and brands like vetements questioned the entire structure of fashion. but over the last couple of seasons street style has seemed to turn into more commodity than community: girls in competition for the most expensive outfit, designer pieces given in exchange for tagged photos and instagram likes. what used to be a thoughtful display of personal style quickly became a wash of breathing advertising campaigns. a sea of girls clickity clacking down the streets in the same pair of balenciaga boots, re/done jeans and slogan t-shirts under “borrowed” statement coats.
part of what felt so depressing about phoebe philo’s departure from the fashion world is that she was such a clear, authentic voice. there were no light shows or tricks- the clothes were elegant and handsome; chic and subtle and they spoke for themselves. what i saw in philo’s absence was her influence; in much of the ease & sophisticated slouch that philo introduced the world to. i saw her in the color palette itself, but within that palette was a big range of clothing. it felt like influence instead of facsimile, and that was refreshing. designers seem to be finding their own voices again, and that is where the magic happens.