well my friends, another fashion month has come to a close, and there was an energy that comes with a sense of new blood this time around. this season i was stoked to watch some of my favorite emerging designers take things to the next level, designers like stella jean, maryam nassir zadeh, isa arfen and particularly johanna ortiz were all on my list, but none killed it more than young jacquemus. i’ve been crazy about him all year, so his spring collection was really the one to watch for me and it didn’t disappoint.
it felt like (once again) all eyes were on gucci and balenciaga and (as ever) celine, and seeing the three of them towards the end of the month, it was easy to look back and see how influential on the fashion world they each are right now. everything seemed to be pushing the line between pretty and ugly with strange color combinations and statement t-shirts (clearly the vetements effect). gucci pink ruled supreme, showing up everywhere. gucci’s influence was probably most apparent at marc jacobs, whose collection of rainbow knits and embroidered sweaters worn with hot shorts and babydoll slips (and pastel colored fake dread locks) felt a little overdone.
for demna gvasalia’s second collection at balenciaga there was more demna. exaggerated shoulders, strange spandex boot leggings and a latex poncho that looked like a giant condom. over at margiela, the collection was like outfits for futuristic hobos, showing reconstructed trench coats and wetsuits that seemed to say, “you can’t out-weird margiela, dude. we started this party.” and yet, balenciaga’s brand of weirdness has something other, something lovely that pushes the envelope in a whole new way.
by the time miu miu showed i felt like i had been surfing through alessandro michele & gemna divesali’s sea of clashing rainbow waves, so seeing miu miu’s collection felt like a breath of fresh air. miu mui is consistently, always miu miu. it felt so fun and genuine and still on point, in contrast to the monotony of another karl lagerfeld chanel collection which had parody comedy sketches of the ridiculous hats and tweed suits flashing before my eyes. in the middle of this we saw several houses showing debut collections from new designers, and they all seemed to have something to say that brought new life to their respective labels. this seemed to highlight what feels like a new direction for fashion, with gucci and vetements as the new guard. below are some of the themes that i spotted, the ones that i liked best.
- a different kind of pant. it started with a detacher and phillip lim and popped up again at louis vuitton: little lacey, brightly colored pants that looked like skinny bloomers. at both rachel comey and delpozo there were pretty ruffled wave pants.
2. pink and red. gucci started a pink revolution, and the latest craze seems to be pairing pink with bright red. which looks amazing to my eyes.
3. pink and black. vetements’ dark florals started us down this path, and everybody seemed to be showing flowy dresses with pink and black prints.
4. pink capes. balenciaga, valentino and celine all showed pink dresses with gathered necklines that looked like costumes for a badass lady superhero.
5. paper whites. i still love seeing a delicate, crisp white dress, and this season there were so many pretty ones. my favorites are below.